Fideus with Capers, Salsa Negra & Avocado Cream
Ingredients
Serves 4
4 tbsp olive oil
250g (9oz) angel hair pasta or vermicelli
1 x 400g (14oz) tin of plum or chopped tomatoes
1 onion, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1½ tsp sweet paprika
½ tsp dried oregano
3 tbsp salted capers, soaked in water
1–2 tsp light brown soft sugar
500ml (17fl oz) hot water
salt
For the avocado cream:
1 large hass avocado (or 2 small), peeled and stone removed
1½ tbsp lime juice (from 1–2 limes), plus extra if needed
1½ tbsp chilled water, plus extra if needed
1½ tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra if needed
2 tbsp finely chopped coriander stalks
1 jalapeño or other green chilli, stem removed and roughly chopped (optional)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the Salsa Negra:
180ml/6¼fl oz rapeseed or groundnut oil
15g/½oz arbol chillies, stems and seeds removed
25g/1oz chipotle chillies, stems and seeds removed and cut into pieces
10 black garlic cloves, chopped
10 fresh garlic cloves, chopped
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tbsp light brown sugar
½ tsp cumin seeds
salt and freshly ground black pepper
crème fraîche
handful coriander leaves, roughly chopped
1 lime, cut into wedges
50g/2oz capers
Recipe
These noodles, with Spanish roots, are cooked in what is known as a ‘dry soup’. The resulting dish, a favourite in the impeccable cantinas of Mexico City and Veracruz, is served rather like a risotto course, and is the same consistency. It is a joyous dish, particularly with the rich, smoky hot Salsa Negra.
Heat half the oil in a large, deep frying pan (skillet). Add the pasta and fry until at least half is dark golden, but not burnt. Remove to a kitchen-paperlined plate and wipe the pan out with a damp, clean dish towel.
Blend the tomatoes, onion and garlic in a food processor until puréed.
Warm the remaining oil in the large frying pan and when hot, add the purée along with the paprika, oregano, drained capers and sugar. Simmer for 10 minutes until the sauce is thick and reduced and the flavours are concentrated. Add the hot water and 1 teaspoon of salt to the purée and bring to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes and check the seasoning – the sauce needs to season the pasta as well – then set aside.
Meanwhile, make the avocado ‘cream’ and the salsa. To make the avocado cream, blend the avocado flesh with the lime juice, chilled water and olive oil in a blender or food processor. Add the chopped coriander stalks, 2–3 large pinches of salt and the chilli (if using). Blend again to a smooth, thick cream. Taste and adjust the seasoning and consistency of the avocado cream with more salt, water, lime or oil.
To make the salsa negra, combine the oil and the chillies in a large saucepan. Bring to a simmer over a medium–low heat, stirring frequently for about 5–7 minutes until fragrant and the chillies are slightly browning in spots. Stir in both garlics, the vinegar, sugar, cumin and 1 teaspoon of salt and take off the heat after 2 minutes. Leave to cool, then transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor and blend until it forms a smooth paste. Taste and season with salt and pepper for a balance of sweet, savoury and spicy.
When you are ready to eat, heat the sauce, add the pasta, and cook until the pasta is just tender and the sauce is thick, about 5–7 minutes. Serve in shallow, heated pasta bowls with a spoonful of crème fraîche and the avocado slices or the avocado ‘cream, a good drizzle of salsa and lots of fresh coriander sprinkled over.
